Laguna Negra, one of the sacred lagoons at Las Huaringas where the mesa norteña is practiced.

Howard and Don Alfonso at Laguna Negra

On the road down to Huancabamba from Laguna Negra we stopped for awhile. Standing on the road,
I said to Howard, “You look like a Viking.” Gauging his reaction, I quickly added, “In a good way.”
Another pause. “You know like the people that really discovered America.” He just gave me this
look, saying, “I didn’t discover America. I was always here.”